Sewing-machine.



A/BATES. SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED FEB. l0. 19%3.

Patented June 27, 1916.

Muff

A. BATES.

SEWING MACHINE.

H APPLICATioN FILED FEB.10, |913. 19};.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Patented June 27, 1916.

ARTHUR BATES, or'LEIcEsTEa, ENGLAND, AssiGNon To UNITED' sHoEivinciaiivraar',i

COMPANY, OF'PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A GORPORA'IIION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWiNGMACHiNE.

Application led February 10, 1913. Serial No. 747,414.

T all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ARTHUR BATES, a subject of the King of England,residing at Leicester, Leicestershire, England, have invented certainImprovements in Sewing Machines, of which the following description, inconnection with the accompanying drawings, is 'a specification, likereference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in theseveral figures. I

This invention relates to machines used in the manufacture of boots andshoes and more particularly to that type of machine `in jivhich a'curved needle is provided to effect the permanent stitching together ofthe sole and upper of turn shoes. An 'example of a sewing machine ofthis type is What is4 known in the trade as the Goodyear Welt and turnshoe sewing. machine and the stitch-forming devices of this machine areapplicable with particular advantage to machines constructed inaccordance with the piesent invention. t U

T he object of the present invention is the provision ofa sewing machineof the above j, provided with a proJection or button so that1S generaltype but which is so organized' asto be capable of sewing an unlastedshoe'upper permanently to a sole and which is adaptedl to be of veryadvantageous use in connection with turn shoes having soles of flexiblematerial (such as felt).

Felt soled shoes as now made generallystructed according to thisinvention shoes of this kind have their unlasted uppers and soles,Without the use of a last, manipulated into a correct relationshipoftheir adjacent edges and' permanently-` sewn together at a singleoperation.

A feature of the present `invention is the provision of a. machine forsecuring an unlasted shoe upper, e. c., an uppei' olf the last,permanently to a sole and characterized `by a rotary or other hornadapted to support" one face of successive portions of thesole margin(the sole upper being outside' ln,.

Specification of Letters latent.'

,site the curved needlel so that the needle may projection in the Workwill be produc'edff Ithe presser foot and the horn ivhich haiV if thevvork be a turn shoe) and a member ,u that coperates with the horn tohold thef-i ,qty marginal portion of the upper against the'. other faceof the sole and infsuch relation ship to a preferably Work-feeding-orothe curved needle that the barbed point of 'thef said needle Willpierce through both .the ij margin of the upper and that surface only.of the sole that is adjacent thereto to per manently stitch themtogether.- The member poperati'ng with the horn. may consist of apresser foot, and accordin '65 to another feature of the invention,WhficliiA may or may not be. employed, the saidy -foot may be so formedas to co-act Withf-a corre spending part on the horn to cause a portioni o f the shoe bottom to be raised locally oppo penetrateboth upper andsole'vvithout mak ing too broad a seam. Conveniently, vthi presser footmay be of claivslike or bifur cated formatioiivso as to engage the WorkatY points displaced at each side of the point-ff-` ivhere the end ofthehorn engages it,ai`itlv the said end of the liorn may be formed "or whenthe work is pressed. between tlieff presser foot and the horn a ridge, niouiid'prL i through which the needle can enter andthe emerge near thepoint of entrance.

In accordance with a further feature o this machine the arrangement ofthe hor and its coperating member oi' presserfoot is such that they areseparated to permit the' feed of the work. In thepreferredcoi'istruction the horn is operatively coniiected i" with thepresser foot and so correlated thatL when the horn is depressed thepresser foot is lifted. This arrangement provides'thaty i the Work shallbe freed more quickly and'l thoroughly for the purpose of feeding, and 9for enabling a 'more ready n ianipulation'of'y the upper and sole intocorrectrelationship than is the ease when the presser foot alone' ismoved. i i

I have herein' shown novel featuresfo'f l. invention concerned with theactuation of"v been devised jointly b v me and Alfred licliards and aretherefore ,being claimed in another application tiled February '13,vv191s, Serin No. 748,148. (f

rfhese and other features of the inventien will now berdescribed asembodied in the illustrated machine. It is to be understood, howeverthat this embodiment is by way of illustration merely and not by wayoit' limitation, since the invention could be embodied in other formsand the construction, disposition and operation of the parts could bevaried without departing from the spirit thereof.

' In the said drawings: Figure 1 is a side view ot' the machine withparts in section, ot sullicirait of the stitch-forming inechanismot thewell-known type ot Goodyear sewing machine to enable the invention to beunderstood; Fig. 2 is a detail plan of the shoeeengaging devices; andFig. 3 is an enlarged view of the parts closely adjacent .to the shoe.

In the illustrated construction thed sewing -machine comprises a head 2that supports .the usualv stitch-forming devices including a curvedneedle 3 and a looper 4 located above a curved horn 5 upon which thework is supported for the sewing operation.

The horn is shaped to enter a shoe and is mounted, preferably so as tobe capable t of rotation, to bring diiterentparts of the 'to enable thework to be fed.

shoe into operative relationship with the sewing devices. Further, thehorn is adapted to be depressed by connection with a treadle for thereception and removal o'l' work and, as will appear later herein, isautomatically depressed to a lesser extent To this end the horn 5isprovided with a. sleeve (l that is received within a bore in a bracket7 projecting from the base of the head 2 and surrounds a supportingspindle 8 upon which it is capable of being rotated, for

which purpose a ball bearing 9 is provided between the lower end of thesleeve l and an enlargement 10 olf the spindle 8. Relative verticalmovement between the spindle and the sleeve is prevented by the boss 11of an arm 12 liked to the spindle S by a bolt 13, this boss engaging ina recess in the upper end oiu the sleeve. is of sullicient length topermit oli an up and down motion inthe brat-.kot 7 and is raised .andlowered by a toggle 1l, 15 the upper end ot the link 1l being connectedwith the spindle at 1G while the lower link 15 is centered at 17 in thebracket 7 and is in the form of a bell-crank lever the outwardlyextending arm 1S of which is connected with a treadlc rod 20. A screw 21threaded through the `trame forms an abutment for the central oint ofthe toggle and acts as an adjustable stop to regulate the height towhich the horn will be raid, this raising being accomplished by a spring19 that connects the arm 18 of the bellcrank lever with the frame andtends to maintain the toggle straightened. The

screw E21 is provided with a lock nut 22 to maintain it inthe positionto which it has been adjusted.

From the foregoing it will be understood that the curved horn 5 isnormally held in raised position, which is variable according tocircumstances, by the spring 19 but that it can be lowered for theremoval, insertion or manipulation of the work by the breaking of thetoggle by lowering the rod 2() through the operation of a treadle towhich the rod is connected.

il he horn is curved as aforesaid so. as to extend within the shoe andis providedat its upper end with a projecting button 25 that .toi-nis asupport for the shoe sole. In the present construction the'button iseircular in plan and its upper surface is of spherical formation so asto raise a portion of the shoe bottoni into a mound. Coper- 85 atingwith the projecting button 25 is a presser foot or clamping device 26which is liiiurcated, as shown in Fig. E2, to form fingers 27, 2S,arched in a vertical plane, and which, by engaging the work, serve topress the upper and sole together and to deform the sole so as toprovide a pro jection through which the curved needle 3 can penetrateThe claw 27 under which the work first passes preferably is beveled inorder to avoid marring the work and also to assist the passing of thework under. it when manipulated by the operator; and it may, it'desired, be shorter than its companion 28.

rlhe presser toot 26 is pivoted at 29 to the upstanding cars 30 0f abracket 31 (see l? 2l secured to a projecting portion 32 ot' the head 2.An edge gage 33 for positioning the work is provided, and the flat 105shank portion 34 of this gage extends under the bracket 31, beingadjustably secured thereto by a thumb-screw 35 which passes through aslot in the portion 34C and screws into the said bracket. Extendingunder the presser foot is an enlargement 3G formed on the .ti-ont ot'the sha-nk portion 3% of the e, this enlargement serving as a means vtordetermining the distance between. the line of stitches and the edge ofthe work and also asisting in positioning the upper in the desiredrelation to the sole immediately before the upper is secured thereto.rlhat side of the enlargement 36 which first engages the work, e., theright-hand side as viewed by the operator, is formed with an upstandinglip that abuts against the leading side ot' the presser foot, whileanother projection 38 extends upward between the fingers 27, Q8. asshown in Fig. 2.

It is to be understood that in the use of the machine constructedaccording to this invention for the manufacture of felt soled turn shoesthe edge of the upper overlaps the edge oit' the sole and in thisposition they iso are afterward turned inside out.

embodiment of the invention the lpworkdis, fed'bytliefneedle 8 which isof theeurved type that in penetrating moves in the arc lthe main shaft;

are presented to the machine to be sewn and In this of a circle. Forthus feeding the work the needle ycarrying lever 42 'is mounted 0n abracket 43 depending from a slider 44 that` s adapted to be movedhorizontally toward the left-hand side of the machine after the needlehas penetrated the work to feed the work, suitable mechanism beingprovided to accomplish this movement.A To allow the" feeding movement ofthe work by the needle the khorn is lowered 'and this is effected byconnections between the needleactuating mechanism and the horn-loweringdevice. These connections may compris a link 45 connected at one end tothe lever 46 by which theneedle is oscillated through its are and at theother end to'an armv47 loosely mount; ed at 17 on the stud or spindle on which is lower element 15 of the toggle. The lever 46 is'pivoted at 4Sto the machine frame and carries al cam roll 49 that stands in a groovecut inthe side Vof a 'cam disk mounted 'on pa rtedv-to the lever 4G arecommunicated to the needle by a link 5() universally jointed at, .oneend to the needle-carrying lever 42 andy at the other end to the lever46. The universal joints permit the lateral movement ofthe needle tofeed the work. The arm'47 has adjustably secured to it, by a screw andslot'connection, a plate 5 1 having `a laten" ally projecting tappet 52Which operates on anextelision 53 of the arin18 of the bellcrank lever15,18 `and sufficient lost ino-- v feedingof the work theconnectionbetween the trea'dle rod 20 and the arm 18 ot the bell-cranklever is constituted by a pin 54' projecting from the latter that entersa slot in vthe treadle rod which is normally maintained raised by aspring that connectsit with a projection upon the frame. A Stud carriedbythe treadlerod 2() lim'V its` its upward movement by contactingl withthe said projection.V ln this embodiment of v tlv/invention in additionto the Ahorn-being lnwered the presser foot is raised while the y no1-k'is fed by the needle, and t-.ei'isequently l mnections are providedbetween the presser i :oi and the horn-lowering device. These.connections are arranged as follows :-The

aforementioned arm 1ithat is secured at one between 'the block 61 andthe upper colla been raised. Anyv suitable devicefniay' be f provided toenable the height to which th `mounted-the bell-crank lever forming the"The movements vthus im- 1 'the horn the treadle is released, the toggletween the end of the horn and the clawf'lik been depressed through thearm 12.,"lin`k' 'started and during' the progress of the stitching thework is fed bythe transverse 11110 by Letters Patentof the United`States'i last having, in combination, a curved needle 'the horn 'toclamp the marginal portion of Athe"upper against the outer face of tliidly supports at its other end an upright stud On this stud twoA collars-l59,'.6Oyare pinned at a distance apart, so as tolea'vv space betweenthem in which is located.' I" block ($1 thatslides on the stud 58 andtha is' normally kept in Contact with the lowI collar (30 by a spring 62whichis disposed 5f). The block G1 is connected by a linkt with the rearend of the presser fooi-,26'

An abutment G5 on the bracketlI is pro vided below the rear arm of the'presse lever so that when the presser is raised fron the workfor thepurpose of. Afeeding thefso rear arm 'will rest on the abutment and thepresser j foot will be held statinafr clear of the sewing devices, thespring 62! providing. for the fur-ther downward move menty of the hornafter the, presser foot presser foot isA lifted to be varied', such 'forexample as a 'screw threaded through rear arm of the presser'foot fand'adapted td engage theabutme'nt 65. i 1 jf;

The operation of the machine as far as Q concerns'the present inventionno doubt will be understood from 4the 'foregoing' de' scription fof thedifferent parts but'it'inay 5 be briefly recapitulatedl asfollowpst---llyie` operator depresses the 'treadle and thereb throughthe treadle -rod 20 and connec bell-crank lever -breaks the toggle clowers the `horn, ready for the reception'flk 'if the work. After "thishas been. placed upon is straightened 'and the work pressed`b end of thepresser' foot which latter'ha 63 and other parts connecting the pressefoot with the horn. j The machine is thenrv movement ofthe needle, thehorn being' lr'iv-j A ered automatically: and the presser foot raised ateach stitch-"through the loosel mounted ar'ni 47 andta'ppet.59J that comAprises part of the connections between the needle-actuating lever 46`and the horn-low-` ering device.` y f j A l l lflavi'ng fully describedmy inventio what 'I claim'as new and'desire to secure 1`. 'A 4machine*Afor securing -anl unlasted shoeupper pernianently `to a sole olf vthand voperating mechanism therefor, a Ar0- tary horn adapted .to extendwithin the sl'ioelz and support successive portions of `the sol"'nun-gin, and a memberjthat coperates with 'sole and in `suchrelationship to the curved needle that the barbed point ofthe saidneedle will pierce through both the margin of the upper and that surfaceonly of the sole that is adjacent thereto to permanently stitch themtogether.

2. A machine for securing an unlasted shoe upper permanently to a soleoff the last having, in combination, a curved needle and operatingmechanism therefor, a horn adapted to extend within the shoe and supportsuccessive portions of the so-le margin and a member that cooperateswith the horn to clamp the marginal portion of the upper against theouter face of the sole and in such relationship to the curved needlethat the point of the said needle will pierce through both the margin ofthe upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent thereto topermanently stitch them together, the tip of the horn and the memberthat coperates with it being so shaped Iand actu ated as to form on vthesurface of the` work a projection which intersects the path of theneedle.

3. A. machine for securing an unlasted shoe upper permanently to a soleoff the last having, in combination, a curved needle and operatingmechanism therefor, a horn adaptedto extend within the shoe and supportsuccessive portions of the sole margin and a member that cooperates withthe horn to clamp the marginal portion of the upper against the outerface of the sole and in such relationship to the curved needle that thepoint of the said needle will pierce through both the margin of theupper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent thereto topermanently stitch them together, the said member having two curvedfingers or limbs and the horn being provided with a convex,A tip whichforces the work between the said fingers or limbs to form the saidprojection.

4. In a machine for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and itssole, a needle and its operating mechanism, a horn, a clamping footcooperating therewith to hold the marginal portion of the upper againstthe top face of the sole for the needle to pierce through both themargin of the upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacentthereto, said clamping foot having two fingers overlying the horn andbetween which the needle can move to feed the work, and an edge gage forthe work arranged between the fingers and serving to control the line ofstitching in the work.

5. In a machine for permanently sewing` togethera shoe upper and itssole, a needle and its operating mechanism, a horn, a

'clamping foot cooperating therewith to hold the marginal portion of theupper against the top face of the sole for the needle to pierce throughboth the margin ofthe @5 lupper and that surface only ofthe sole that isadjacent thereto, said clamping foot having two fingers overlying thehorn and between which the needle can move to insert the stitch and tofeed the work between the horn and-said foot, the finger under which thework first passes being beveled on its front end substantially as andfor the purf pose described.

6. In a machine for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and itssole, a needle and its operating mechanism, a. horn, a clamping footcoperating therewith to hold the marginal portion of the upper againstthe top face of the sole for the needle to pierce through both themargin of the upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacentthereto, said clamping foot having two fingers overlying the horn andbetween which the needle can move to insert the stitch and to feed thework between the-horn and said. foot, said fingers being arched. in avertical plane extending lengthwise of the fingers and the top of thehorn being similarly curved substantially as' and for the purposedescribed.

7. In a machine for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and itssole, a needle and its operating mechanism, a horn against which thesole is held for the needle to pierce through both the margin of theupper and to the upper, said horn being provided at its upper end with aprojecting button having an upper surface of sphei'lcal formatlon thatconstitutes the support for the sole and assists in lending the soleupwardly out of a plane at the stitching point.

In a machine for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and its sole,a needle and its operating mechanism, a horn to extend within the shoeand against which the sole is held for the needle to pierce through boththe margin of the upper and the portion of the sole that is adjacentthereto, said horn being provided at its upper end with a projectingbutton having an upper surface of spherical formation that constitutesthe support for the sole and assists in bending the sole upwardly out ofa plane at the stitching point, and cooperating means pressing the upperagainst the top face of the sole adjacent to the horn button andconstructed and arranged to depress the work at the needle enteringpoint.

9. In a machine of the class described, the combination with a needleand its operating mechanism of a clamping foot having a fork or slotextending in the direction of the needle movement and a'work supporthaving a projecting head shaped and arranged to force a portionof thestock 'up into the slot in the clamping foot and into position to bepierced by the needle. l

10. In a machine of the class described, the combination with a curvedneedle and that surface only of the sole that is adjacent MEE Bitti itsoperating mechanism of a clamping' foot having an opening through itsstock engaging face, and a horn adaptedto cause a portion ofthe shoebottom to be raised locally into said opening at a point in the path ofthe curved needle so that the needle may penetrate both the upper andthe sole and emerge near the point of entrance.

- l1. In a machine ofthe class described, the combination witha curvedneedle and its operating mechanism including means to act-uate theneedle to feed the work, of a clamping foot of claw-like formation hav-Aing the bifurcations extending in the directionrofthe piercing movementof the needle and separated far-enough to allow the needle l 4to feedbetween them, and a work support formed to press the stock up betweenthe bifurcations and produce a mound or projection ni the work throughwhich the needle willenter and then emerge on the same side p of thework to produce a narrow seam.

12. In apparatus for relatively positioning and permanently sewingtogether an unlasted shoe upper and its sole, a needle and its operatingmechanism and associated v parts to form and set stitches through themargin of the upper and that surface only' of the sole that is adjacentthereto, a horn to support lthe inner side of'the sole, and an edge gageto position the sole laterally with relation to the needle path andbetween which gage and the edge of the sole the upper is positionedacross the path of the needle.

13. In apparatus for relatively positionl ing and periminently sewingtogether an unlasted shoe upper and its solo, a needle and its operatingmechanism and asso-.iated parts to forni and set stitches through themargin of the upper and that surface only of the sole that is adjacentthereto, a. horn to support the inner side ofthe sole and poneedle 14.In apparatus for permanently sewing together a shoe upper and its sole,a needle and its operating mechanism, means which engage the inner faceof the sole and is formed to raise the sole immediately inside theneedle entering pointrelatively to the s ole at the needle enteringpoint, and inf gers extending lengthwise of the needle movement 'andarched on.their lower sides to depress the stock at either side of theneedle and at the needle entering and emerging sides of said portion ofthe `sole raised by the sole supporting means.

l5. In an apparatus for'permaiieiitly*sewing together a shoe upper andits sole, a curved needle and its operating mechanism and associatedstitch forming and setting' parts, combined with a rotary horn arrangedto engage the inner side of the sole while permitting movement of thework with relation to the horn and support the work relatively to thepiithof the curved needle for the sewing operation through the margin ofthe upper and into and out of the upper JFace of the sole, substantiallyas described. i

Iii'testiinony whereof I have signed my name to this specification inthe presence of two subscribing witnesses. e

ARTHUR Barns.

VVitnes'ses: e

Fimmiaicn VVILLTAM lVomn, lViLLin VViiusoN. l i l

